UT Recreational Sports
4 min readJul 28, 2020

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by Connor Chewning and Daniel Nguyen, Program Assistants, Climbing Wall Supervisors and Adventure Trip Guides

Now is the perfect time to upgrade your climbing knowledge. Here are some tips on what to learn and how to go about learning it.

Be wary of where you find information

While there are tons of resources online, not all of them are safe or recommended practices. It is important to remember that climbing poses inherent risks and it is up to you to take responsibility for your safety whenever you do get back to the crag or gym. Always follow your gym’s procedures and ask for guidance from professional sources when unsure. To learn from home we recommend going to REI’s Climbing YouTube Playlist or to the AMGA Tutorials from Outdoor Research which offers training in general skills.

Practice your knots

Knots are everywhere in climbing. You need them to tie in, build anchors, set up rope systems and impress your friends. REI offers a great guide to learning the important ones. We recommend starting with the Figure 8 and clove hitch. You may not have climbing rope at home but any form of string will work, including a shoelace!

Photo by Daniel Nguyen

Practice your clipping

If you know how to lead climb, then you already know the importance of clipping draws. If you have no idea what we’re talking about then now is the perfect time to pique your interest in a new type of climbing, Sport Climbing. You can learn about and practice the techniques at home so that you are ready to get professional instruction from your home gym or local guides when possible.

Photo by Daniel Nguyen

Become an anchor building master

Anchor building is important for any type of climbing and is a great way to take your top rope knowledge outdoors. John Long’s book on anchor building will give you all the knowledge you need to start practicing this skill. You can practice at home by using heavy weights, couches and chairs as anchor points. Then seek out professional instruction to make sure you have everything down before setting up your own top ropes.

Work on your rope coiling

If you have a rope at home this one’s for you. Coiling Rope is usually considered a mundane task. But if you get really good at it, the whole crag will stand in awe at your ability to take a 70 meter nylon snake and get it in the rope bag within a minute. Talk about respect.

Clean your rope

We all deal with our hands looking like we just spent the day digging in a muddy sandbox when we return home from the crag. All this just from belaying a dirty rope! Rope care is a crucial aspect of staying safe while climbing outdoors. As particles enter into the rope they can start to slowly degrade the rope’s core from the inside out. Spend a day inside cleaning your best friend and checking up on the general health of your rope.

Practice your taping technique

Learn to protect your hands with crack gloves for the next time that you give the cave crack a try at the Gregory Gym Climbing Wall. If crack climbing isn’t your cup of tea, then take a look at the techniques to add stability to your fingers and prevent flappers for the next time you are pulling hard.

Make your own “Climbing Balm”

Skin health is critical to sending your hardest and there is nothing quite like lathering up with your own homemade miracle climbing skin repair balm after a hard session. The process of making it is super simple, fun and way cheaper than buying from a manufacturer. Plus you can experiment with your own scents and ingredients. Whenever we get flappers or busted tips, this is the stuff we turn to.

This entry is the second of our four-part series Climbing Through the Crux of Quarantine.

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UT Recreational Sports

Education through recreation. Est. 1916. | The University of Texas at Austin